Donna described beautifully the ambience of Pokara Valley, Nepal. The “airport” and it’s runway that ended on the edge of a steep canyon, Annapurna, the Tibetan refugee camp, all so memorable. I remember walking to the camp, a long hike in flip-flops, and on the return trek I stopped to dangle my feet in a pristine-appearing stream. Shortly after I got settled, a Nepalese or maybe a Tibetan man came along. He paused, looked at me, we smiled at each other, then he sat down some distance away and dangled his feet in the stream. We both laughed and smiled, then continued on our ways. I like to think that he had never done that before but maybe it was the strange sight of a woman, alone, soaking her feet that made him smile!
I was supposed to be in Nepal from Tuesday to Friday. There were 2 flights a week from Dacca—PIA one day, Royal Nepal the other. On Friday, I boarded the Royal Nepal as the only passenger on the DC-3. We were about half way to Dacca when the co-pilot came to the passenger cabin, sat down and said very seriously, “I’m sorry but we won’t be able to continue to Dacca due to very bad weather.” Since not long before I went to Nepal there had been a terrible tidal wave (nowadays called a tsunami, I believe) that hit the coast of East Pakistan, near Chittagong, I believed his tale could be true. As luck would have it, we then returned to Nepal! Lucky because I’d have to stay until Tuesday and over the weekend the first successful American Expedition to Mt. Everest was to arrive outside Katmandu. Nearly all the foreign enclave, including Nepal PCVs who were in Katmandu, had plans to drive out to the road’s end, about 15 kms as I recall, to meet the Expedition. Wasn’t Willie Unsold on Nepal’s PC staff in those days? He was one of the Expedition members, too. To make a long story short, I was able to join the crowd and gaze upon those mountain climbers as true heroes. All I remember were blue eyes with depth I can’t describe. Indeed, they looked as if they had been to the mountain top and had seen the promised land. Incredible.
Well, E. Pakistan Peace Corps staff were a little upset with me for being late on return and they found my story hard to believe, especially because there was no storm. Cooler heads prevailed, surmising that there was no ground-to-ground communication. Once in the air they could call Dacca and probably learned there were no passengers to carry back to Nepal so why not allow one Amriki woman to return to Nepal for a few more days